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Day 5: Hindmarsh Island & Coorong Cruise

Last day: This was a rest day for most, but my last day on the Tour.  I got Nellie rolling after breakfast and headed off to the bridge to Hindmarsh Island. 

From the top of the Hindmarsh Island bridge

This controversial bridge has allowed the crass 'developments' that those that fought against the bridge, predicted.  A fancy marina with boring suburban houses for the wealthy!  Another quiet natural environment invaded.  Thankfully they are contained - at the moment - on one end of the island and there is some protected areas on the rest of the island.

good old SA Stobie poles

After giving myself a total scare when my camera 'jumped' off the gorilla-pod and slid to within 50cm of the end of the bridge, I shakily rode on to the lookout overlooking the mouth of the Murray.  As most people are, I was amazed to see how small the mouth of the mighty Murray River is.  And due to the wind coming off the land, the breakers of the Southern Ocean were tamed a bit. 

The Mouth of the mighty Murray River

A black crusty-looking Shingle-back lizard asked me for something to eat, so I offered the core of my juicy pear, which was gratefully received.

Stumpy lizard, finishing off my pear

After returning to campsite and having a quick shower, I walked down to the Wharf to catch the 'Spirit of the Coorong' cruise.  Jock, captain of the Coorong, was at the helm and we chugged around to the barrage with the lock that allows boats to pass through.  

Fresh water entering the Coorong

A couple of the gates were still open, fresh water pouring into Coorong.  As we approached

the barrage, we could see big fat seals lolling around on the timber supports and in the water.  These are New Zealand Fur Seals - not sure how they got there or if they are naturally the seals in that area.  They are such circus animals and so entertaining.

NZ fur seals making themselves at home

 I think we could have happily spent more time, just watching their antics.  But the captain drove the boat onwards and right out into the mouth of the Murray, until it started to get a bit rough.  It is quite a treacherous meeting of river and sea and only occasionally are boats taken through this opening.  (so why does one need a marina inside this only access to the open sea??)

where the ocean meets the Murray River

We then chugged off down into the Coorong, past flocks of pelicans, black swans, cormorants and a variety of smaller water birds, too far away to be identified.  Terns and gulls flew around the boat and off again.

Pelican covered sand spit

We chugged past a small fishing village - their land tenure is now limited to the owner's life - the huts are to be removed from the conservation area once the owner dies.  The dark green huts looked like the sort of house I would love to live in - much more interesting than the plastered brick monstrosities of the marina.  my seat companion agreed!

Fishing village along the Coorong

We stopped at a landing (and tried not to disturb a couple of nesting Pied Oyster-catchers) and the deckie led us along a boardwalk over the sand dunes to the Great Southern Ocean coast.  It was quite a hot walk and on reaching the sea we took our shoes off and went for a wade in the water!  It was SO cold, I scuttled back out of reach of the waves in fear of frostbite, but others were more daring!

walking along the boardwalk over the sand dunes

paddling in the very cold ocean

And so back to the boat and back to the wharf.  a really peaceful and informative cruise enjoyed by most. 

And so ends my first experience of an organised bike tour.  I think I prefer to do my own organising for touring, though there was nothing wrong with this one.  It was nice not having to lug around loaded panniers and not having to look for accommodation, but so far in my trips that has never been a major issue.  I did feel a bit pressured to make sure I got to the next stage on time - never a real issue, but it was there.  The food was as good as expected, tho a bit low on protein for vegos.  There was plenty of it, plus real coffee in the morning and fresh fruit.  I learnt quickly not to be in the first mob setting out, so that I could ride along at my own, stopping to take photos when I wanted and not getting in the others way. This also meant that arriving back to the camp on my own, usually meant no queuing for the toilets and showers.
And I learnt how to 'snot'!!  Punching into a cold head wind soon had my nose running so I decided to give the disgusting habit of the lycra crowd a go, to clear my nose whilst riding!  Bingo - it works!  especially in a strong head wind!  And preferably when no-one else is around!  So now I feel almost ready to sign up for the Tour de France - almost :)
I will keep my eye on the program for future tours, but will be directed by 'where' rather than just going on the tour.  Guess I am not that much of a social person!

and so ends my BikeSA Annual tour experience, 2011

The Coorong's signature - Pelicans!

Day 4: Back to Goolwa

Day 4: I cruised back to the camp after sleeping like a log in the motel room.

There was no rush this morning as I was one of the riders that were being bussed back to Langhorne Creek, to ride the last 50km to Goolwa.
Those that were riding the 130km to Goolwa were heading off as I rode back to the camp-site for breakfast.  Those on the first boat ride on the Coorong were getting ready to board the bus and the rest of us were able to have a nice slow breakfast.

Bridge Hotel, cleaning day

Eventually, those that were riding from Langhorne Creek, boarded the bus, our bikes loaded on the trailer and we were quickly driven back to the Bridge Hotel (est 1850), Langhorne Creek.

back to the Vineyards again

Some took the opportunity to have a real coffee before heading off.  But I had to tighten the bolts on my handle bar.  Soon I also was heading back to the turn off to Milang.

Abandoned farm house

 The wind came nicely from behind and it was a beautiful road to ride - not much traffic, vineyards on either side, old traditional stone homes typical of stoney South Australia.  There was a beautiful avenue of old eucalyptus trees that shaded the road, that I forgot to stop and photograph!

Lake Alexandrina in the sun

But soon we were into more open areas with grain crops waving in the wind.  The road brought us right down onto the edge of Lake Alexandria. With the sun shining on the water, the lake looked much more beautiful than earlier this week, when it was grey and wild and stormy looking.

Long open road

There were mallee trees protecting the road in places, with bottle-brush in full flower, brightening the olive green verges.

Looking for that little red arrow

Fishing alternative to riding

A couple of fishermen scratched their heads as they watched us come zooming down the hill to cross over the small river and struggle up the next hill.  They invited me to come and rest on the bank with them, but I was happy doing what I was doing!

We had our lunch break just past Finnis, before a couple of sharp climbs.  

We were now back in vineyard country again and soon we were rolling into Goolwa - and back a couple of centuries!

typical old church in Goolway

with beautiful white rose border

railway track to Victor Harbour

The beautiful old stone buildings have been allowed to remain in a town that has been recently discovered by retirees from Adelaide.  One could only call Goolwa - Charming! 

Goolwa Pub

Another fancy church

Goolwa Court House

Goolwa Railway Station

I went for a ride around the town and found an op shop and bought a small rug in preparation for another cold night.  I was looking for an art gallery to buy a couple of local watercolours, but nothing was open.

Thankfully, the evening was much milder than the previous 2 nights, so I was able to snuggle into my bivvy and have a decent sleep this time.  

Riding Stats:  2:48hrs, Avg 20kph, Max 53.5kph (thanks to a wonderful downhill swoop!)

Day 3: Around Lake Albert

Day 3: After freezing all night, I got up early and went for a quick ride before breakfast, trying to get my blood moving thru my body again and it was a good time to check out the bird life around the lake.  The pelicans and cormorants were cleaning themselves before heading out to fish for some tucker, while the New Holland honey-eaters were dashing from one bottlebrush to another.
I decided that I would check out the caravan park to see if there were any spare cabins, but lucked out there.

After breakfast we set out going north again - yep! the wind had changed overnight and it was once again a headwind.  But we only had 20kms to do before we turned left and headed towards Narung with the wind now coming from behind.  Much better!

Heading north to Narung

It was a pleasant day for riding and the kms clicked away under our wheels.  There were salt lakes on one side of the road with wheat (maybe) crops on the other side.  Black and white cows munched around the paddocks while water birds fished in the lakes. 
A lone fisherman - or was it a scarecrow or?? overlooked one of the small lakes where grey teal gathered in large flocks.

The Eternal Fisher

Salt Lakes near Narung

Morning tea was at the Old Station, Poltaloch's that is.  It was for sale - for a couple of cool million $.

Poltaloch's Old Station Homestead

We rode onto the old lighthouse - was it Pt Malcom's - near the Narrow's crossing.  

The Lighthouse

The Lighthouse

From the lighthouse, the view over Lake Alexandrina on the north and Lake Albert on the south, showed how healthy the lakes were looking, full of water again. 

Old turnstile at Lighthouse

We then loaded onto the punt to get to Narung.  

The Punt across The Narrows

Nellie waiting for the Punt

Before lunch, I rode out to Raukkan, the Aboriginal settlement.

Entrance to Raukkan, Aboriginal settlement

Raukkan church

It was a very tidy little village and I stopped at the small shop to stock up for my chocolate habit!  Then back to Narung for lunch.  Bit of a controversy here, as the later riders missed out on their share of the Coorong Mullet feast, but being a vego I wasn't too concerned about that.

Bleak open farmlands

The remainder of the ride was very pleasant, riding through farmlands.  I thought we would be riding through coastal scrub country, but that was a dim distant memory now.  Grain and dairy seem to be flourishing after their hard times during the drought. 

Beautiful banksia

Milk can mail box

Got back into Meningie early in the afternoon and rode back into the township and checked out the motel!  yes!  a room for the night - electric blanket even!!  so I zinked back to the camping ground, dismantled the bivvy and packed up my gear and went back to the motel for a nice hot shower and clean clothes before heading back to the camp site for the evening meal.

To make sure I slept well that night, I raided the bar fridge and downed the quite nice small bottle of red and slept like a log!!

Riding stats for today were:  5:02 hours, 93.5km, 18.5kph avg, 41kph max

Black swans paddling in one of the lakes

Day 2: Langhorne Creek to Meningie

Day 2:  After a plentiful breakfast, tents all packed, we set off with the wind blowing strongly from behind.  Such a relief to get the legs working and warmed up without the struggle of a head wind.

Wellington Punt

Sailing along, it was much easier to take in the landscape. 32km later, we arrived at the Wellington Punt crossing.  Morning tea was waiting for us and a welcome toilet stop!

The punt was busy clunking over the Murray, collecting bike riders as well as the tourists and locals.

Windmill at Wellington

 Soon we were again punching into a slightly lesser headwind than yesterday, but one that was relentless as ever.  The Princes Highway was once the main road to Mount Gambier and there was still plenty of traffic to annoy a bike rider. 

Road kill - a young magpie

Mostly the cars were courteous, but several caravans went past too close causing an expletive or two to be sent out into the airwaves.  Trucks were a worry, but at least they did slow a little and attempt to give us plenty of room.

Truck approaching - get off the road!

Salt lakes appeared alongside the road, edged with pig-face flowering in pretty pinks.  A lunch break at Ashville allowed a quick tour through a 'Collectables' museum before getting back into the wind and punching our way to Meningie.

Pigface in blossom

arriving in Meningie

Lake Albert soon appeared alongside the road and at last we rode into the township of Meningie and around to the Meningie Football club.

Proud footie club

Before putting up my tent I went for a walk down to Lake Albert and along the edge, checking out the birds.

Which way did they go?

Pelicans cleaning up before sunset

Riding stats for the day:  77.8km, 4:51 hours, 16kph avg & 31.3max - thank you tail wind!

At night the clouds were blown away and the temperature plummeted  and I froze in my little cocoon bivvy - although I had almost all my clothes on.  I am not used to 3.3C!!